Bridging Loan Calculator

If you buy your next home before your current one sells, two numbers decide whether it works: your peak debt and your end debt. This works out both, including Victorian stamp duty.

Your current home

Leave as 0 if the home is owned outright.
Be conservative here. This is the assumption that decides everything.
Marketing, conveyancing, discharge fee.

The home you're buying

Affects Victorian stamp duty on lower-priced properties.

The bridging period

Lenders commonly allow up to 12.
We don't pre-fill a rate — enter one to model, or ask us for a current figure.
Note: this calculator assumes you pay the bridging interest monthly, which is how several major lenders structure it. Some lenders instead add the interest to the loan, which makes the debt grow over the bridging period. We'll tell you which applies to your lender.

While you own both homes

Peak debt
The most you'll owe — from settling the new home until your current one sells.
Current loan balance
Purchase price
Victorian stamp duty
Legal & other purchase costs
Less your cash contribution
Peak debt
Combined value of both properties
Peak loan-to-value ratio

Cost of the bridge

Per month
Total over the period

Enter an interest rate above to see the cost.

After your home sells

Expected sale price
Less agent commission
Less other selling costs
Money left to pay down the loan
End debt
The loan you're left with once the sale settles — this is the one you'll actually live with.
End loan-to-value ratio (new home)

What if it sells for less?

This is the question worth asking before you bid, not after.

Sale priceYou receiveEnd debtEnd LVR

How bridging finance actually works

When you buy before you sell, your lender doesn't give you two separate loans and hope for the best. It funds the whole position — your existing loan plus everything needed to settle the new place — and treats it as one debt secured against both properties. That combined figure is your peak debt.

When your current home sells, the net proceeds come straight off that balance. What's left is your end debt, and it's the number that matters most, because that's the mortgage you'll be paying for the next twenty or thirty years. A bridging loan that looks frightening at peak can leave a very comfortable end debt — and the reverse is also true.

Peak debt

Your current loan balance, plus the purchase price of the new home, plus stamp duty and costs, less any cash you put in. It's measured against the combined value of both properties, which is why the loan-to-value ratio during the bridging period is usually lower than people expect.

End debt

Peak debt less the money you actually receive from the sale — after the agent's commission and selling costs, not the headline sale price. That gap surprises people, so the calculator above deducts it for you.

What it costs

Interest is charged on the full balance for as long as you hold both properties. Several major lenders require you to pay that interest monthly during the bridging period, and will want to see you can afford it — either from income or from savings set aside for the purpose. Others add the interest to the loan instead, which costs more overall because you end up paying interest on interest. Which approach applies depends entirely on the lender, and it's one of the first things worth pinning down.

The things that genuinely go wrong

  • The sale price assumption. Almost every bridging deal that turns painful does so because the existing home sold for less than expected, or took longer than expected. Model it low. If the numbers still work at 10% under, you have a real plan rather than a hope.
  • Running past the term. Bridging periods are commonly capped at around 12 months, and lenders take the deadline seriously. If the property hasn't sold and settled in time, some lenders can treat the loan as being in default, change the rate, or step in to help sell the property. Ask what your lender does before you sign, not after.
  • Assuming a nil end debt is fine. If the sale will clear the debt entirely and leave you owning the new home outright, that sounds ideal — but some lenders require a minimum ongoing loan to write the bridge at all, particularly if you're new to that bank. It's a common reason a downsizer's application doesn't fit where they expected.
  • Forgetting the deposit is due before any of this. Bridging funds the settlement, not the 10% you hand over on the day you sign the contract.

When bridging isn't the answer

It isn't always. If your current home is genuinely close to sold, aligning the two settlement dates can achieve the same outcome for nothing. If you're buying at auction, a longer settlement is sometimes negotiable and costs less than a bridge. Where a deposit is the only real hurdle, a deposit bond may do the job. And if the sums only work on an optimistic sale price, the honest answer is usually to sell first and rent for a few months — less exciting, far less risk.

Working out which of those fits your situation is the actual job, and it's the conversation worth having before you fall in love with a property.

Want these numbers checked properly?

Send through what you're planning and I'll work through your position — including which lenders will actually do it, and what it should cost.

This calculator provides general information only and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. It is not tax, financial or legal advice, and it is not a loan quote, an offer of finance, or an indication of a rate available to you. Results are estimates based on the figures you enter and on simplified assumptions — they exclude lender fees, valuation and application costs, mortgage registration fees, settlement adjustments and lenders mortgage insurance, and they assume bridging interest is paid monthly rather than added to the loan. Victorian land transfer duty is estimated using published State Revenue Office rates current at the time of writing and may not reflect concessions, exemptions or surcharges that apply to you — including first home buyer concessions and foreign purchaser additional duty. Bridging finance, interest rates, terms, loan-to-value limits and eligibility are subject to individual lender policy, assessment and approval. Figures should be confirmed with your broker or lender before you rely on them or make a commitment. Navigator Broking arranges credit only. Lenders pay us a commission that can vary between lenders and products; under Best Interests Duty we must recommend what is in your interests regardless of that difference, and we disclose the commission for any loan we recommend.

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